My first car was a 1968 Volkswagen bus. My mom made it into a home with a bed and privacy curtains and a big smiley face painted on the front spare tire cover. It was in that van that I first discovered the freedom of travling with my home. My personal surf shack and a safe place to lay my salty head at night. I lost my virginity in that van and discovered the world of freedom that I would occupie at any cost for the rest of my life.
Exploring the California coast for surf, that van created my first and some of my best memories of freedom. Back before Instagram and Facebook and blogs and all the other forms of social media I quietly lived my life as a surf bum. I worked hard to keep enough money in my pocket to fill the tank and buy a burger at the end of a long day on the water.
California has one of the largest populations of great white sharks in the world, Carcharodon carcharias, I learned to live in harmony with them. When the Grunion fish would run the great whites would give berth to the cutest little torpedo like creatures you have ever seen. We would dive the beaches at night with our powerful lights watching these beautiful little fish in thier feeding frenzie. I was 16 the first time I caught a great white in my bare hands held the mighty beast becoming one with its power and the power of the sea.
Young eyes, wide open and the freedom to roam. Some people migh blame my mother for my hippie, vagabond ways but I will always thank her. I have always been given the freedom and support to follow my dreams to the end of the path less taken, I love you mom 🙂
“But there’s a story behind everything. How a picture got on a wall. How a scar got on your face. Sometimes the stories are simple, and sometimes they are hard and heartbreaking. But behind all your stories is always your mother’s story, because hers is where yours begin.”